This perpetually crammed specialty market is Cambridge through-and through: thoughtful, civic-minded, and impeccably pedigreed. It’s the local go-to for obscure cheeses as well as pates, organic and biodynamic wines from small producers, and homemade baked goods. Ihsan and Valerie Gurdal, along with son Kurt, are affable cheese ambassadors who are often seen shaving off sample slices for serious shoppers. Formaggio stocks a wealth of cheeses from New England artisans, many from Vermont. Twig Farm washed rind from Cornwall, Vermont, was a recent favorite, as was Cabot’s clothbound cheddar, aged at Vermont’s Cellars at Jasper Hill. There are also plenty of cheese vessels and accompaniments: They stock a small selection of breads that spotlight the work of local bakers; Bonnie’s Jams, founded by Cambridge native Bonnie Shershow, debuted here. (Her low-sugar, pectin-free jams pair sublimely with cheese.) There are also house-made sausages, duck, and rabbit pates. The shop makes a strong effort to source cheeses from small, sustainable producers and will happily discuss each cheese’s provenance; they also compost all organic waste. In addition, Formaggio is a happy pilgrimage for independent local brewers, who frequently host beer-and-cheese pairings here. This shop is 30 years old; they also operate another shop in Boston’s South End.
